食光 | 北京人的面食记忆

京食京事儿2020-06-01 10:58:06

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Beijingers’ Memories of Cooked Wheaten Food 

老北京面食






Nowadays, speaking of the specialties and food culture in Beijing, there must be Beijing roast duck, Beijing hotpot, noodles with fried soybean sauce; or the boiled pork giblets, fried liver, glutinous rice rolls with sweet bean flour. These are all well-known delicacies. Today, let's talk about the cooked wheaten food that are Beijingers’ favorite. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the crop distribution of the southern rice and the northern wheat was fully formed. Naturally, the diet was also in a similar situation that “Southern people liked eating rice and northern people liked eating cooked wheaten food.” On the tables of Beijingers’ you can easily find a variety of cooked wheaten food, such as steamed wheaten food, boiled wheaten food, and fried wheaten food. Those that are often mentioned are noodles with fried soybean sauce, the Qingfeng steamed buns which was tasted by President Xi Jinping, and the pancakes served together with the roast duck, etc. As a girl who is indeed fond of eating, I walked through the streets to interview  some people (freeloading actually) and have discovered a lot of unusual cooked wheaten food which is rarely seen in the restaurants. Today, I’m going to talk about the memories of cooked wheaten food from these local Beijingers.


如今,说起老北京的特色美食及饮食文化,开口就是烤鸭、涮肉、炸酱面;要不就是卤煮、炒肝、驴打滚。这些都是大家熟知的美味。今天我们来说说北京人爱吃的面食。明清时南稻北麦的作物分布,已经完全成型,饮食上自然也是“南人饭米,北人饭面”的局面。北京人餐桌上的面食可谓是五花八门儿,蒸的、煮的、煎的、炒的。经常提到的有老北京炸酱面、庆丰包子、还有小伙伴说烤鸭里的卷饼... ... 作为一个爱吃的猪猪女孩,我走街串巷采访大家(去别人家蹭吃蹭喝)发掘了很多餐馆里不常见的面食。今天就来给大家讲一讲我采访的这些老北京人的面食记忆。






阳阳阳

Yang Yang Yang

24岁

 24 years old

家住房山区的北京姑娘

 A Beijing girl who lives in Fangshan District.



When it comes to cooked wheaten food, what I remember the most is the Hutazi, also known as Tantuozi, which is a kind of soft pancake made of flour, shredded zucchini and eggs. Although this is a very simple cooked wheaten food, it means mother’s taste for me. When I was in primary school, I was a little fat girl. I had to eat breakfast at home every morning, and I had to be full of food, otherwise I would be hungry before noon and couldn't concentrate on my study. But my mother was not very good at cooking, plus she had to run her own wedding studio then, so she was too busy to pay much attention to my breakfast. In my mind, my mother always bought some toasts in advance every week, so in that whole week, my breakfast would be toasts with ham sausage and milk, or with eggs and milk, or with jam and milk. But those were not enough to fill my stomach. My mother would make noodle soup for me occasionally, but I might as well prefer to eat toasts. Then there was one morning, because of the monotonous impatience of breakfast, I lost my temper to my mother and left home without eating anything. I bought a burrito at the breakfast stand at the gate of my community and I was angry while I walked and ate. Then I got a stomachache for the whole morning which might result from the cold I got when eating breakfast. From then on, my mother paid more attention to my breakfast and got up a little early every day to prepare various kinds of nutritious breakfast for me. 


说起面食,我记忆最深的是摊坨子,也叫糊塌子。就是把西葫芦擦成丝,放上鸡蛋和面粉搅拌成糊,摊成圆形的饼。虽然这是一种非常简单的面食,但这是属于妈妈的味道。我上小学的时候是个小胖子,每天早上都要在家吃早饭,而且要吃得饱饱的,不然还不到中午就会饿得不能集中注意力学习。但是我妈妈她不太会做饭,加上自己开婚庆工作室,工作很忙没有很重视我的早餐。在我印象里,最开始妈妈总会提前买好一带面包片,所以我这一周的早饭就是面包片加火腿肠配牛奶、面包片加鸡蛋配牛奶、面包片抹果酱配牛奶,可是并不能吃饱。妈妈偶尔也会给我做挂面汤,但是还不如吃面包片。后来的一天早上,我因为早饭单调不耐烦地和妈妈发了一顿脾气就走了,在小区门口的早点摊上买了个烧饼就边走边吃还边生气。结果可能是因为着凉了,肚子就疼了一上午。从这以后妈妈更加重视我的早饭,每天早起一会儿做各种有营养的早餐。


阳阳阳和妈妈

Yang Yang Yang and her mother

I remember one night, my mother took me to the supermarket to buy zucchini, and mysteriously told me that, the next morning she was to make me a delicious breakfast. But she did not tell me what it would be. I was with great curiosity to wait until next day. When I just opened my eyes and I smelled something very good. When I came to the table, I saw the golden soft pancake with zucchini. I tasted it with anticipation. Hey! This should be the best food my mother has ever made. My mother told me that this was a kind of food made by her grandmother for her when she was a child. At that time, life was not rich, there were brothers and sisters in the family, and she could not eat it often. Later, when she worked, the Hutazi was relatively simple to cook, and she liked to eat them very much, so she would often learn to cook it. Later, when she got married and was busy with her business, she almost forgot such a technique. Because of the softness, plus the shredded zucchini and carrot, the taste was very wonderful. I was  attracted by it so much that I often pleased my mother to cook it for me. Therefore, my mother was also very good at cooking it by constant practicing.

 

我记得一天晚上,妈妈带我去超市买了西葫芦,神秘地和我说,第二天早上要给我做一个好吃的,但没告诉我是什么。我怀着好奇心等到了第二天,刚一睁眼我就闻到了香味。来到桌前,看到金黄色带着西葫芦丝的小饼。我满怀期待地尝了一口,嘿!这应该是我妈妈做的最好吃的一种食物了。妈妈告诉我,这是她小时候姥姥给她做的一种食物,那时候生活并不富裕,家里还有弟弟妹妹,不能经常吃到。后来自己工作了,摊坨子比较简单,也喜欢吃这个,就会经常学着做,再后来结婚了工作忙了,就忘记这么个技术了。因为摊坨子的口感软软的,再加上放一些西葫芦丝、胡萝卜丝,味道很香,我就被它降服了,经常让妈妈做给我吃,妈妈因此也练出了摊坨子这一项绝招。


阳阳阳的妈妈

Yang Yang Yang‘s mother


But later in high school, I always went to the KFC near the school with my classmates to have breakfast in the morning, otherwise, the choice would be egg pancake or the baked roll with meat in front of the gate of my school. I seldom ate the breakfast made by my mother then. I remember that during the preparation for the college entrance examination, the pressure was so heavy that sometimes I had no mood to eat the meals. My mother often got up early in the morning to cook for me. My favorite food was still the Hutazi, and then I ate some porridge. It was warm, and all I felt was my mother's concern and love. It just feels real. I left home for university in Miyun which is a place far away from my home. Although it is still within the region of Beijing, I did not come back home quite often. And my father would be in charge of the kitchen to prepare a table of food for me every time I came back home. Therefore, the Hutazi were not showing up with a high frequency on my table. Now I work in Tongzhou District, morning and evening commuting home is very inconvenient. So I share the rent with my colleagues in the vicinity of the company. My parents are not around, so my own breakfast is always in a fast way, such as buying some breakfast around the company or just eating bread. Sometimes we accountants are so busy that we work overtime until we forget to eat. At that time, I especially want to eat my mother's Hutazi, putting a bit more zucchini, which tastes particularly good.

I think my mother’s best dish should be only the Hutazi, which has  the even thickness and appropriated heat. Even though it is of a very simple and plain home-made style, it is the special growing up memories for me.


但后来上了高中,早上总是和同学一起去学校附近的肯德基吃个早饭,要不就是学校门口的鸡蛋灌饼、烧饼加肉,就很少吃妈妈做的早饭了。记得高考那段时间,压力很大,有时候都吃不下饭,早上妈妈就经常早起给我做饭,最爱吃的还是摊坨子,再喝点粥,热乎乎的,感受到的全是妈妈的关心和爱,就是感觉很踏实。大学离开了家去了稍远的密云,虽然都在北京,但不经常回来,每次回来都是家里的大厨爸爸给做饭,摊坨子出现的频率也没那么高了。现在工作了,因为在通州区,早晚上下班回家很不方便,所以就在单位附近和同事合租。父母不在身边,自己一个人早饭总是凑合,在公司附近随便买点要不就是啃面包。我们做财务的有时工作很忙,加班到忘记吃饭,那时候就特别想吃妈妈做的摊坨子,多放一点西葫芦丝,那味道特别棒。

我觉得妈妈最拿手的应该只有摊坨子了。薄厚均匀、火候正好,虽然很家常,但对我来说是成长的回忆。



王阿姨

Aunt Wang,

46岁

46 years old

家住房山区的热情的北京大姐。

 An enthusiastic Beijing women who lives in Fangshan District of Beijing.



Northerners prefer cooked wheaten food. Our family members are all true northerners, so we all like to eat cooked wheaten food. As the person who is in charge of the kitchen in my family, I often make a variety of cooked wheaten food for the whole family, such as handmade noodles, steamed buns, fried cruller, etc. But I have a specialty with secret recipe, that is, deep-fried corn pancakes. I have improved the recipe and cooking process of it by adding vegetables or fruits, as well as eggs into it, which can be made into salty or sweet taste. It is so popular among my family members that my daughter could eat three at one time.


北方人爱吃面,我们家庭成员都是地地道道的北方人,就爱吃面食。我作为家里的掌勺人,经常给他们做各种面食,手擀面、包子、炸油饼。但是我有个独门秘笈,就是贴饼子。我把这个贴饼子改良了,加入了蔬菜或是水果,还有鸡蛋,做成咸口或甜口的,特别香,我闺女一顿能吃仨。


There are four members in our family, my daughter, my husband, my father-in-law and I. It's hard to cook three meals a day and take care of the tastes of three people. During week days, my daughter goes to school and does not go home to eat lunch, and my husband is an taxi driver, working busily outside for the whole day. I work in the community close to home, so the responsibility of cooking for my father-in-law naturally is mine. When my father-in-law was young, he was not rich and had suffered from the life. The vegetables were rare at that time, which caused a result that he prefer more food crop to fill the stomach to other food like vegetables, and this eating habit has lasted until now. As a result, his stomach status now is not good, and he prefers more cooked wheaten food. So he rarely eats rice, but often eats steamed bread, noodles, fermentative pancakes. In order to make my father-in-law eat healthier and more nutritious food, I often try to cook different kinds of food. So I often wonder how I can make him have more choices of staple foods, and can also help him eat more vegetables.


我们家一共四口人,我、女儿、丈夫和公公。我要做一天三顿饭,还要照顾三个人的口味,挺难的。平时,女儿上学中午不回家吃饭,我丈夫是跑出租的,一走就是一天,比较忙,我在社区工作离家近,所以给老爷子做饭的重任自然就交给我了。老爷子年轻的时候生活不富裕,吃过苦,那个年代没有现在这么多蔬菜,吃粮食自然就比较多,结果现在也不爱吃菜,总是更多地吃主食吃到饱。现在老爷子胃不好再加上爱吃面食,所以主食很少吃米饭,经常吃馒头、面条、发面饼。为了让老爷子吃得更健康、营养,我每天都会变着花样做饭。所以我经常会琢磨,怎么能让老爷子有更多的主食选择,还能多吃点菜。


热情的王阿姨

An enthusiastic aunt Wang

Once we went outing, we ate in a farmyard restaurant, where we ate a dish called stewed small fish with deep-fried corn pancakes, which gave me the inspiration. After this dish came up, I found that my father-in-law preferred it to other dishes. He ate one after another, I said: “Dad, you love the deep-fried corn pancake?” My father-in-law told us that when he was young, he went to the countryside for political reason. The most common food was corn, so he often ate deep-fried corn pancake and corn porridge. As soon as they got there, they tried to make their own deep-fried corn pancake for the first time. There were always people who did not wait for the proper heat but to stick the  raw corn pancake onto the inner side of the cool pot. While the cool pot was not hot enough to fry the corn pancakes, so the young people could only watch the pancakes sliding into the bottom of the pot, which always caused a burst of laughter of everyone. These are the memories of his youth, and the smell of the deep-fried corn pancakes were full of the house. At present, the deep-fried corn pancake is not the same as before, with fine grain added, which makes it not feel so rough and hard to swallow, still good.


有一次出去玩,吃农家院,有一道菜叫小鱼贴饼子给了我启发。这道菜上来以后,我发现老爷子挺爱吃里边的贴饼子,吃了一个又一个。我就说:“爸,您倒是挺爱吃这贴饼子的啊?”老爷子告诉我们,年轻的时候下乡插队到农村,在那里,最常见的是玉米,所以经常吃贴饼子喝玉米粥。刚到那边,好多人都是第一次尝试自己做贴饼子,总有人没等锅热就往凉锅上贴,凉锅是粘不住的,所以只能眼看着饼滑倒锅底,惹得大家哈哈笑。这都是年轻时候的记忆,还有那满屋飘香的贴饼子味。现在的贴饼子和以前不一样了,加入了细粮,不会感觉那么粗糙不好下咽,也不错。


When I got home, I began to wonder how I could make use of the deep-fried corn pancake to help my father-in-law eat healthier and more nutritious food. Then I decided to mix corn flour with soy flour and eggs, so it would taste better and wouldn't be too rough. It also would reduce the burden on the stomach and would be more nutritious. Then I also added some celery leaves, because celery leaves have the effect of lowering blood pressure. And I add some carrots, too, which can help to supplement vitamins. Finally, I deep-fry the corn pancakes with a electric baking pan. The taste is very good, and it got my father-in-law’s praises. Even my daughter who is a picky-eater loves it, too. I am afraid that they would be tired of it, so I always change the ingredients of the pancakes, such as adding vegetables or fruits, and then this homemade deep-fried corn pancake has become a regular food on our table.


我回家以后就开始琢磨,怎么能利用贴饼子让老爷子吃得更健康更营养。后来我决定,把玉米面和黄豆面、鸡蛋混合,这样口感会更好,不会太粗糙,减少了胃的负担,还会更有营养。然后加一些芹菜叶,因为芹菜叶有降血压的功效。再放一些胡萝卜,多吃点蔬菜,补充维生素。最后用电饼铛烙成焦黄就可以了。味道非常香,得到了老爷子的认可。吃饭挑剔的女儿也非常喜欢,后来,我怕他们吃腻了,就会换着花样,加入各种蔬菜或是水果,自制的贴饼子就成了家里餐桌上的常客。


王阿姨做的蔬菜和主食

Staple foods and vegetables


How do you like it? Is the cooked wheaten food on the Beijingers’ table very interesting? These are not common in restaurants. In fact, Beijingers’ tables also hide a lot of traditional food that Beijingers often eat. Although they may look unremarkable, they are indeed the taste that Beijingers eat from the childhood until now...


怎么样?北京人餐桌上的面食是不是很有意思?这些在餐馆里可不常见。其实北京人的餐桌上还藏了好多老北京人经常吃的吃食,虽然看起来毫不起眼,却是北京人回忆里从小吃到大的家的味道……


Now let’s learn how to cook the Hutazi and deep-fried corn pancakes.

下面我们就来学习一下,摊坨子和贴饼子的做法


The Hutazi.

摊坨子


Ingredients:

食材:

1 Zucchini, 150g of flour, and 65g of eggs

主料:西葫芦1个、面粉150g、鸡蛋65g

Seasonings: Proper amount of oil, salt and water

辅料:油 适量;盐 适量;水 适量

Steps:

步骤:


1. Wash and shred the zucchini into small pieces and put them into a basin. 

1、西葫芦洗净擦成丝,放入盆中。

2. Add flour, eggs, and salt.

2、加入面粉、鸡蛋、放入适量的盐。

3. Add proper amount of water and stir to mix them into batter.(The batter should be slightly thinner and then it is easy to pour out)

3、加入适量的水,搅拌均匀成面糊。(面糊稍微稀一些,能容易倒出)

4. Preheat the electronic baking pan, add a little oil, and spread the oil evenly with a spatula.

4、电饼铛预热,加入少许油,用铲子把油铺均匀。

5. Pour in the proper batter and spread the batter with the spatula.

5、倒入适量面糊,用铲子将面糊向四周摊平。


6. When the batter is basically solidified, use the spatula to turn the pancake over to fry the other side.

6、待面糊基本凝固,用铲子将饼反面。

7. If both sides turn to be golden, it can be taken out from the pan!

7、两面都变成金黄色,就可以出锅啦!



Deep-fried corn pancake:

贴饼子



 This time Aunt Wang teaches us to make sweet deep-fried corn pancake with persimmons.

这次王阿姨教我们用柿子做甜口的贴饼子。

Ingredients:

食材:

 250g of Corn flour, 100g of soybean flour , some persimmons and eggs

主料:玉米面250g、黄豆面100g、柿子、鸡蛋

Seasonings: baking soda, and water

配料:苏打、水

Steps:

步骤:

1. Add the soybean flour into the corn flour and mix them well with a little cooking soda.Add the eggs, and the persimmon, pour the pulp and juice into the batter and mix well.

1、玉米面中加入黄豆面拌匀,掺入少许苏打拌匀。加入鸡蛋、柿子。

2. Knead the dough with the warm water of 30 degrees. Wait for 20 minutes after finishing kneading the dough so that the corn flour is fully rinsed with water.

2、用30度的温水和面,面和好后松弛20分钟使玉米面充分被水润透。

3. Preheat the electronic baking pan. Round the kneaded corn flour with the hands into the shape of circle and put it into the bottom of the pot and flatten it. 

3、电饼铛预热,把和好的玉米面用手团成圆形团,拍扁放入电饼铛。

4. Fried both sides  until they look golden, then it is cooked and can be taken out.

4、烙至两面上色、熟透便可取出。


So these are today’s Beijingers and Beijing Specialties. Remember if you have stories to share with us, please leave a message~


今天的京食京事儿小编为大家就先分享到这里啦,记得如果你有故事也想要分享,别忘了在留言里告诉我们哦~

    图片 | 陈琪

    文字 | 陈琪

    编辑 | 陈琪

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